Diy Hot Tub Line Flush
Tips for Getting a Neglected Hot Tub Back in Operation By Black Pine Spas Admin December 26, 2013. If it’s been a while since you used your hot tub or spa. We think it’s better to clean out the spa, fill it with new water and then flush the jets. It’s the best way to make sure all of the gunk that develops when water sits for a long.
Locate the four staves marked with chalk lines and two key staves, and set aside. Note that the staves with chalk are to be place around equal distances of the tub to aid in hoop placement. The key staves will be used to fit in the final gap. Stack the staves on the tub bottom to help keep the bottom in place as you work on it. Erect first stave over the seam between the two halves of the tub bottom.
Put on all full width staves first, ensuring to place the marked staves equally around the perimeter to use as a guide with the hoops. Use blue masking tape to hold staves together as you work on the tub. This is very important, and be liberal with tape usage. At first, tape was used sparingly, which resulted in the entire set of staves needing to be replaced two times. Staves should be touching one another with about 1/32-inch gaps (thickness of a credit card).
The staves should be lined exactly up with the outer chalk line on the tub floor, not the inside line. Use your mallet to lightly move the staves into alignment as you put them around the tub.
After the full width staves have been installed you will fit in the key staves. The flat edges are to be pressed tightly together with the tongue and groove on the outside.
If the gap for the key staves is two wide for them to fit snugly, then you must install the key staves in the gap against the last full width stave that was installed. Remove two staves and move 1/16” between them and the adjacent staves.
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If your initial gap is too narrow for key staves to fit, remove the first two full width staves that were installed and install key staves against the last full width stave. Move one stave and then the next (3rd to be installed) 1/32-inches between the two.
Diy Hot Tub Line Flush Parts
Parts:
- 3 metres of 25mm (1in) stainless tube
- 1 old LPG gas bottle (the kind used for barbecue grills)
- 1 bulk liquids storage tank (the 1000litre kind with a steel palletised cage)
- enough old corrugated iron to cover the outside of the tank
- scrap polystyrene packaging
- 1 closed cell foam camping mattress
- a roll of soft narrow gauge binding wire (or equivalent - you could use cable ties at a pinch)
- scrap metal parts for the legs and decoration
- a canoe paddle or something similar
Tools:
- arc welder (and the safety gear to go with it)
- angle grinder with metal cutting and grinding discs
- pipe bender large enough to bend 1 inch stainless tube
- tin snips
- heat gun / paint stripper
- box cutter
- strong pliers with a sharp cutting edge
- the trusty knockometer
- various clamps
- magnetic welding clamps are handy
- hacksaw (omit if you're deft with the angle grinder)
- handsaw/drawsaw or equivalent
- narrow nail punch/set or a strong nail
- cordless drill with a 2 - 3mm bit
- a vivid or permanent marker pen
- a gas axe is an optional extra here if you have one and aren't afraid to use it